Belgium: A Politer, Frencher Netherlands

           Although Belgium had not originally been on my list of destinations in Europe, the allure of an easy train ride and charming cities drew me in. Belgium is a fascinating country split into 3 regions: the Dutch/Flemish side, the French side, and a tiny region of German speakers. With the exception of Brussels that has French and Dutch as their language, I was mainly in Dutch speaking areas (although, Belgian Dutch is much flatter and more subdued than Netherlands Dutch which is almost raucous). Anyways, I hopped on the train to my first destination, Antwerp (a city known for its student population, large port, and diamond industry). As soon as I arrived I was amazed by the intricate and beautiful train station in the city center. I didn’t have long to wait before my first couchsurfing host, Han, picked me up (like most Dutch, I couldn’t pronounce his name correctly, but he appreciated that I made it sound like Han Solo from Star Wars). We walked through the main shopping area and to his small student apartment where we made dinner together before seeing Antwerp by night. We walked through the main square, Antwerp’s tiny Red Light District, along the Schelde River, and stayed up until 4am getting to know each other and learning about each other’s cultures (although he was quite an expert at both the English language and American culture already).

Antwerp Central Station

Antwerp Friday Market

Han and I taking the OLD escalators into the tunnel

Schelde River in Antwerp

Antwerp City Hall

            The next morning, Han took more time away from writing his thesis to walk through Antwerp’s furniture market/auction, the tunnel going under the Schelde (often used to film Dutch music videos!), get lattes at an excellent hipster coffee place, through his university, and a tiny Chinatown. As soon as we parted ways, I met my second Antwerp host, David. Our first stop was biking to MUHKA, another VERY absurd modern art museum (he promised me that Belgium had better art than this)! Next we biked along the river to the MAS, Antwerp’s new museum with a fantastic view of the city and finally through a lovely park back to his apartment where we made dinner together, shared music (my taste was a little too indie for him), and sampled some awesome Belgian beers. The next morning David prepared a lovely breakfast before I left for Ghent.

MUHKA... art

David and I at the MAS

            Just as I was entering my Ghent host’s apartment (Jochen), another couchsurfer was leaving. Jochen took me through Ghent’s medieval streets, around the Count’s Castle, through the big cathedrals, the meat hall, and even passed by a cooking show being filmed. As we toured, Jochen encouraged me to continue enjoying the sunny weather and stop for beers each time I asked him a big question such as “What are Belgian politics like?” (I learned they are VERY complex). Jochen also told me about his trip to Israel which was very interesting since its rare I meet non-Jews that go there and how his pro-Palestinian position (most of Belgium feels this way) was altered through his trip there. Next we met up with his friend Sarah who joined us on our tour and brought us to a delicious vegetarian restaurant. After dinner, we went to see a Dutch band play in someone’s kitchen. Although I couldn’t understand any of the lyrics, listening to the cello, xylophone, and guitarist was lovely. Finally, we explored Ghent by night (all of their buildings are lit up) and tried Jenever (a very tasty drink similar to gin, but with tons of different flavor options—I tried chocolate).

Ghent

Jochen in front of Count's Castle

Sarah and I in Ghent

The Mystic Lamb by Van Eyck

Dutch band

Sarah and I on a bar on a boat!

Ghent by night

            Jochen had to catch an early train to Leuven, so I also left early and headed to Brugges. The small city of Brugges (only 20,000 residents) could be likened to a medieval open-air museum full of giant groups of Asian and senior citizen tourist groups. Brugges was unbelievably charming and full of chocolate shops (I got plenty of samples), more cathedrals, windmills, a large flea market, and surrounded by a canal with several gates. I also had my first Belgian waffle and Belgian fries (Belgians are very adamant that they were the inventors of fries, not the French). My favorite place in Brugges was the Beguinage, a UNESCO World Heritage site, that claims to have housed the first feminists in 1200 who took a pledge of chastity and formed their own community (different than nuns though).

Brugges

Beguinage in Brugges

Brugges

Brugges

            With another quick train ride, I traveled to my final city Brussels. Sasha, my last host, picked me up at the station and took me around the city (the weather was absolutely perfect!) Sasha, originally from Ukraine was very interested to learn about the United States and differentiate reality versus movies. His roommate was in the same boat since she first asked me if I was Texas (I was a little offended ;)) and then asked me if I knew where Finland was since Americans don’t know geography (good to know I could conquer that stereotype). Next, Sasha and I met up with Rachel, a friend from Clark, who flew in from Valencia. She was able to catch the Grand Palace lit up at night, Manneken Piss (Brussel’s iconic peeing fountain), and join us at the Delirium Café that has a menu of beers the size of a thick clothing catalogue. We had a few hours to see Brussels the next morning in the rain before catching our bus to Amsterdam. Although Brussels had many things to offer, I found it to be like a less impressive Paris with its prestige coming from being the home of European Parliament (I was glad to get back to Holland).

Manneke Piss Fountain

Brussels (view from Palace of Justice)

Rachel's first Belgian Waffle

            In Amsterdam, I was able to be the tour guide as we strolled through Amsterdam’s swanky Jordaan neighborhood, the flower market, and hit the main tourist spots in the center. The next day, I showed Rachel Leiden and even convinced her to ride on the back of my bike (a must for the authentic Dutch experience). Before her whirlwind trip to Holland and Belgium ended we went to the Windmill Museum, de Volk. Since I can’t seem to get enough of windmills, the next day, my friend Danean and I ventured to Kinderdijk! Kinderdijk is a small village near Rotterdam and also a UNESCO site featuring 19 windmills that pump out the water around the polder and plenty of tourists. From there we took a spur of the moment bus ride to Utrecht. Although, I didn’t get to see much of it, I did finally meet up with my fellow Clarkie, Leah studying in the Netherlands for dinner (I definitely need to go back). Now I’m off to Berlin, more on that next week!

Rachel and I at the Burcht in Leiden

Danean and I in Kinderdijk

Kinderdijk

Utrecht

Clark in Utrecht!!

Just Another Great Socialist Country

            After a week home in the Netherlands cooped up in my room doing homework, I was definitely very ready for my next adventure to Copenhagen! Before I left, I did manage to make another trip to Amsterdam! I do have to say it’s growing on me quite a bit. I met up with my Dutch friend, Soleil, who guided me through different neighborhoods, a fantastic market, and to the Stedelijk Museum (VERY modern art). By Thursday, I had given my presentation on mountaintop removal in Appalachia (the Dutch students commented that I talked to quickly for them but, appreciated listening to a passionate American hippie), completed my paper on the fish markets in Urk and Tsukiji, Japan, and finished my paper on Germany’s decision to phase-out nuclear power by 2021! Phew! I was able to celebrate by going to all you can eat pancakes (Dutch pancakes look more like giant crepes and are incredibly delicious).

All you can eat Dutch pancakes!

Soleil was not so impressed with the art

I was also a little skeptical

Amsterdam's canals

            From class I grabbed my bag and caught my flight to Copenhagen. Just like the Netherlands, I was able to take a train directly from the airport to the city where my friend Josh was waiting for me. Since, I arrived at night we didn’t get to see much, but were able to relax and catch up at his dorm which is about a 25 minute bus ride or bike ride from the city center. The next day we joined the masses of other bikers going into the city so I could wander around while Josh was in class. It's amazing how similar Denmark and the Netherlands are with similar languages, a love of biking (although the Dutch are far more reckless), a lovely queen, and progressive policies.

A church turned into an art museum

The weather was PERFECT!

            My first stop was to a 7-11 (my favorite coffee) which I was delighted to see that they have all over the city, but was outraged after I calculated kronners to dollars to see how overpriced it was (Denmark is not a cheap city). From there I walked down their main shopping street, Stroget and to their glass market where low and behold I ran into an old friend my high school also visiting Copenhagen for a few days! It’s a crazy world! Josh and I then met up after class so he could give me a tour of the city by bike! We rode past Tivoli (it’s not open yet, but it’s the amusement park that apparently inspired Disneyworld!), Danish Parliament, many statues of kings on horses (all of their kings are either Frederick or Christian with a Hans thrown in there somewhere), the Black Diamond (one of Copenhagen’s architectural stars), and stopped at City Hall where a massive protest was happening. The government is trying to extend the school day without paying teachers more, rather than the teachers striking, the teachers have been locked out of the school!

Parliament and a statue of either Frederick or Christian

Teacher's Protest, the Lockout, in front of City Hall

Next we met up with some of Josh’s friends from University of Maryland and climbed the Round Tower for some lovely views of the city, offshore wind turbines, and even a sliver of Sweden in the distance. Then we headed to Nyhavn an area near the water with ships and colorful houses and the iconic shot of Copenhagen. As we walked closer to the water we found public trampolines (if they weren’t such a hazard to personal safety I think every city should invest in them). We soon hopped on our bikes again and rode through the royal palace and royal church, which is particularly interesting because I learned that church and state are not separate in Denmark! Unless you opt out, 1% of your taxes there go to the Protestant churches. Before journeying back to Josh’s dorm we stopped at the Little Mermaid statue built in honor of Hans Christian Andersen, which has become a major landmark in Denmark (I was underwhelmed by it). That evening Josh and I made a lovely dinner before heading out to experience some Danish nightlife in their Meat Packing District.

View from the Round Tower with wind turbines and Sweden WAY off in the distance

Josh and I at the Round Tower

Nyhavn 

Public trampolines!

The Little Mermaid

            

             

Guards at the Royal Palace (he yelled at me for getting too close)

              We slept in the next day then began prepping for the Final Four Party Josh was hosting (college basketball for those just as clueless as me) by taking a shopping cart down the bike lane to their big grocery store, Fotex. Afterwards, we took the metro to one of the strangest places I’ve ever been called Christiania. It’s located on one of Copenhagen’s many islands and holds a sectioned off area in which there are 3 rules: 1. No photos. 2. No running (it causes panic). 3. Have fun. Inside the area are places to eat and drink, but mostly small stands selling marijuana! Technically, marijuana isn’t legal in Denmark, but it’s also not illegal. Christiania thinks of itself as autonomous from both Denmark and the EU, so they do as they please and are occasionally raided by the police. What a place! That evening the Final Four party was fun until the game started at midnight and all the other women left. Sports, ugh.

I had to take a photo very sneakily of Christiania

Josh at the lake in Christianhavn

            Sunday, Josh and I went to his visiting family (like a home stay, but they only get together every few weeks). We walked around the old harbor town then returned to their home for 2 hours of coffee, DELICIOUS danishes, and chatting about everything from cars to Danish politics. Finally, we had a very traditional Danish meal of beef (I passed) and potatoes (like the Netherlands vegetarians are not very common).

Harbor town

            On my last day, we got up very early for Josh to go to class while I did some thrifting in a neighborhood known as the Latin Quarter or the “Piss Gutter” (for a place known as the piss gutter, nothing was very cheap here either!) Afterwards, Josh met up with me at the Post and Tele Museum on his break before we parted ways. I then walked past the Rosenburg castle and gardens and through the Norreboro neighborhood (a lot of immigrants and loads of falafel and shwarma). Finally, I visited the city’s main cemetery, which contains the city’s deceased VIPs and most notably Hans Christian Andersen’s grave. Then once again I took a quick train ride and flew back to Amsterdam!

Natural born operator at the Post and Tele Museum

Practicing for a future career as a postal worker

Rosenburg Castle

            This weekend I will make my way  to the Netherlands neighbor and fellow Dutch speaking country, Belgium!

Can't Stop, Won't Stop!

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop!

            Oh my goodness, oh my Guinness! What an eventful 2 weeks it has been! After returning from Ireland, I had less than 24 hours in Leiden to unpack, get to classes, and then repack for Paris, thus there is plenty to fill you in on (so please understand the long entry). Before leaving for Ireland, I had a class field trip to the Dutch city of Urk. The town has a reputation for being incredibly autonomous (it used to be an island before being connected to the mainland), very religious, a love for fishing, and high levels of drug use (although the speaker at the town hall assured us their problems were no worse than Amsterdam!) We went to see Urk’s fish market and compare it to that of the Tsukiji fish market in Japan and study both places from an anthropological perspective. I was very impressed at the sustainable practices the fishermen follow and even tried some fillets (I forgot how much I missed fish). The people of Urk love fishing so much even their churches have boats in them and pictures of Jesus with fish. It was quite an adventure.

My professor and tour guide telling us the value of the fish

Neerlandia Urk fish market and auction

Urk tour guide

They love each other so much, they build their houses literally on top of each other!

            The next morning it was off to Belfast in Northern Ireland. In Belfast I met up with my travel buddies, Danean and Megan and headed to my favorite place in every city—the market. St. George’s Market was full of delicious foods, free samples, crafts, and lively Irish music. From there we walked along the water to Queen Anne’s University where we would meet our first hosts. Our hosts were university students who took us out for our first Irish Guinnesses and to watch the rugby match (although we were warned to never root for England while in Northern Ireland—still a very sore subject there). After an excellent first evening, we hopped on a bus the next morning for St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin!

Belfast City Hall

Most bombed hotel in Europe!

            In Dublin, we were greeted by our Brazilian host (there were a surprising number of Brazilians all over the city also celebrating the holiday). Although we didn’t catch the parade, the streets were alive with people dressed in green and having a stupendous day and night. The next day we wandered the city, strolled along the Liffey River, walked through some lovely parks, saw Trinity College and passed the Book of Kells and finally ate on the James Joyce balcony before hopping on another bus to Galway!

St. Paddy's Day

St. Paddy's Day full costume

Trinity College

Potato Famine Monument

By the River Liffey

            Galway was definitely my favorite place in Ireland. It’s the third largest city in Ireland, but very small, manageable, and authentic. We stayed at a fantastic hostel called Snoozles and went out to a pub called the King’s Head for some traditional Irish music. The next day we went on a free walking tour of the city with a guide who was full of zingers and corny jokes about his beloved city. Fun facts: there is an old window where a man by the name of Lynch was hanged, hence the term lynching and Galway is also the town where the word boycott was coined after Boycott raised his rent too high. From the tour we walked along the coastline and explored the Galway City Museum before once more getting on the bus to Cork and Kinsale.

Galway tour guide... VERY Irish

The Irish's favorite Irish Catholic celebrity, JFK, in one of their church

Galway Coastline

            We did not arrive in Kinsale until very late and by some miracle a New Yorker living in Ireland drove us to our farm lane where we were staying the night. The house was full of French permaculture students and would have been perfect if they hadn’t run out of oil to heat the house (they assured us it would be warm soon… just not tonight)! Nevertheless, we were only there briefly before exploring the small town of Kinsale and making our way to Charles Fort for some lovely views. That afternoon we journeyed to Cork (not a glitzy city but very welcoming and livable) for a delicious Irish breakfast. In Cork there was plenty of shopping to do at our new favorite UK store Primark as well as at the English Market. We also strolled through the historic Shandon Quarter then went to our final host, whom was an Italian student studying abroad there. From top to bottom and long bus rides through the rolling green hills of Ireland I think I got quite a good taste for the place!

Charles Fort in Kinsale

Charles Fort

Cork

DELICIOUS Irish breakfast

What most of Ireland looks like

PARIS

            As I mentioned after a brief stop in Holland, I took Megabus to Paris! The ride was about 7 hours long, but it gave me ample time to rest and appreciate the drive through Belgium and the French countryside. My couchsurfing host Roman welcomed me to the city and invited me to Indonesian food with his friends and a party at his friend’s swanky apartment near the Louvre. Afterwards, his friends (who couldn’t get enough of imitating my American accent) gave me a night tour of Paris and invited me to join them at Dali exhibition at the Centre Pompidou (but it was 2am and bedtime for me!)

Centre Pompidou at night

Roman and his friends on the Seine

            The next morning, my friend Nancy who is studying in Montpellier met me bright and early for my first full day in Paris. We walked through the Luxembourg Jardin, the Jardin de Plantes, through a mosque, the Pantheon, and a Roman arena (the arena was more of a place to play soccer than ancient ruins). After catching our breath for a moment we took the metro to the Montmarre area and climbed the hill to Sacre Couer, an astonishingly beautiful cathedral with a wonderful view of the city. We then ate delicious Moroccan food with Nancy’s friend from home and ended up meeting a bunch of Americans who invited us to join then for the evening. Not only were they Americans but, most of them were from Rutgers and one of them was someone Nancy and I knew from NFTY (what a small world!)

Chess at the Jardin Luxembourg

Practicing my gladiator at the Roman arena

Pantheon

Montparnasse, Paris's only and and least favorite skyscraper

Paris Mosque

With Nancy outside the Sacre Couer

Sacre Couer

Sacre Couer by night

            After Nancy left, I decided to explore the old Jewish Quarter before most of it would be closed for Passover (I thought being a vegetarian in Paris was challenging, but keeping Passover in Paris is a whole other battle). There I saw the Shoah memorial and had some of the best falafel I’ve ever had. Afterwards I met my new friends in front of St. Michel Fountain for a free walking tour of the city guided by a Bulgarian woman who came to Paris following the love of her life (they are no longer together). Over 3 hours we saw all the crucial sights, including the Obelisk, learned why Henri IV was France’s favorite king, the Jardin Tuileries, the palace of justice, and much more. We then braved the long line for the Musee d’Orsay, which is known for it’s impressive collection of impressionist artists and the building itself, which used to be a grand train station. We tried to visit Notre Dame but, it was a zoo since it was Palm Sunday, (although we were able to watch the mass on a giant screen while waiting in line). That evening I said my farewell to Roman and went to stay at my French friend Lexi’s house, who I had met when he studied abroad at UC Berkeley. He gave me an excellent night tour of the city since we had to vamoose from his flat because his home was being used as an exhibition for an art gallery!

This falafel was comparable to the one I had in Israel

New friends near the Obelisk

Notre Dame

Inside the Musee d'Orsay

All the bridges are COVERED in locks of love

Grand Palais by night

            Monday morning I met with one of my new friends at the Louvre. IT IS MASSIVE and exhausting. The ornate building used to be where the French royalty lived until Versailles was built. We hit all the main sections including Egypt, Rome, Greece, the Italian painters, Mona Lisa (shockingly tiny), Venus de Milo, and Napoleon’s apartments (excessive amounts of gold). After the decadence of the Louvre, I trekked to St. Oeun, which is one of the largest flea markets in Europe located on the outskirts of Paris. With the exception of the building focused on antiques it was largely a North African market. Exhausted but full from the both savory and sweet crepes I bought, I headed to my Clark friend’s apartment for the evening.

Mona Lisa

Louvre and Pyramid

Venus de Milo

Crepe #1: Savory

Crepe #2: NUTELLA!

            On my final day in Paris, I walked and climbed the Eiffel Tower (not all the way to the top though because I have no patience for such lines!) Nearby I went underground to the Musee d’Egouts or the sewer museum to appreciate the complex water system and the former place of resistance (apparently people still go missing under there today from secret parties and a whole sector of the police force is dedicated to patrolling it!) Despite his hectic schedule in French law school, I met up with Alexis again for a lovely French lunch and a stroll on the Plante Boulevard (similar to the High Line in New York City) before he left me at the Bastille (the monument, since the jail is no longer there). Finally, I wandered through the Marais and along Rue St. Martin for some Parisian thrift shopping before once again collapsing from exhaustion.

View from Eiffel Tower

Climbed it, no problem!

Lexi on the Plante Boulevard

            On my last morning I made a stop at Pere Lachaise, the massive cemetery where famous French artists such as Delecroix and Seurat are buried as well as French politicians, Jim Morrison, and Edith Piaf. The cemetery had people from all cultures and religions buried in everything from simple gravestone to structures that looked like mini cathedrals! Just like the rest of Paris they were massive, ornate, and very old.

Pere Lachaise

As jaw dropping as Paris is, it is not for me. The buildings start to look very similar after a while and there is no real nature since every French garden is perfectly manicured and the grass is not meant to be walked on. While, I was pleased to see an incredible network of bike shares and electric car shares throughout the city there is definitely some greening to do (very little recycling!) With the exception of my hosts, the French are not exactly the most welcoming or progressive (there was a massive anti-gay rally during my stay). Nevertheless I would return to the city of love and dog poo in Spring or Summer to see their gardens in bloom (especially Versailles) and return to their numerous museums! For now, I do some have quite a bit of homework to catch up on over Easter weekend before my next trip to Copenhagen!

Electric Car Share!

punny

bike share!

French Environmentalists =)