Berlin: Big City, Big Inferiority Complex

            The last time I was in Berlin was when I was a freshman in high school and journeying there as a part of a Holocaust trip with my Rabbi and confirmation class. In my eyes this harsh, industrial city could only be seen as the extermination of millions of people. This time though, I was determined to see the city in a different light. Today Germany is a world leader, has one of the biggest Green Parties in the world, and has a rich history that is more than just WWII. I arrived Thursday night and took the train to stay with a friend from Clark, Stef, who has been studying abroad there for the semester. She gave me my first new taste of Berlin by going to a few of Berlin’s clubs. The first one we went to was in an area called the Raw Temple which is a bombed out section now covered in graffiti and hidden dance venues and bars. Since the trains don’t start running again until 4am we had some time to kill exploring Berlin by night and of course enjoying some fantastic falafel.

            The next day I was on my own, which I am normally quite good at when I travel, but for some reason Berlin made me terribly uneasy. I was overwhelmed by the vastness of the city and had pangs of discomfort walking by the enormous Holocaust memorial again. Nonetheless, it wasn’t long before I met up with my friend Josh at our couchsurfing host’s apartment on Karl-Marx-Allee (the street is known for its Stalinist era housing once used as tenements, but are now quite nice). Our host Sebastian was quite busy, so after briefly getting acquainted he gave us his bedroom to use for the weekend and key to the apartment! Josh and I headed out for an awesome Indian dinner and an alternative pub crawl. The pub crawl took us to places we would probably never go including a 60s/70s themed bar (well maybe I would go there), a gothic/dominatrix bar, an absinthe bar, an 80s themed club, and finally a club underneath a furniture store! Unfortunately, the furniture store club was not very busy so we joined an Irish couple to another club with techno music and hipsters galore. What a night!

Berlin has so many construction projects there are colorful pipes everywhere transporting gas and pumping out water

Holocaust Memorial

Holocaust Memorial for Homosexuals (inside the small window are clips of gay couples kissing)

             The next day we took a free walking tour to see all the main sites of Berlin starting at the Brandenburg Gate, to a parking lot sealing off the site of Hitler’s bunker where he married Ava and committed suicide, the old Nazi Airforce headquarters (now the German tax office), Checkpoint Charlie (the checkpoint between the American and Soviet sides of Berlin), past 2 very impressive cathedrals (now museums), Frederick the Great’s impressive cultural square, and Museum Isle. Afterwards, Josh and I walked around and grabbed Vietnamese food (another cheap and delicious food found all over the city). Tired from walking all day and the night before, Josh’s “half hour nap” turned into a 12-hour sleep so we stayed in that night.

Brandenburg Gate  

Parking lot over Hitler's bunker 

Checkpoint Charlie (American soldier looking at Soviet side) 

Checkpoint Charlie (Soviet soldier looking at American side)

Controversial Memorial with an unnamed Nazi soldier and unnamed concentration victim buried next to eachother

Our tour guide in fron the world's largest granite bowl

            Sunday we got off to an early start for breakfast and took Berlin’s alternative tour (if you ever go to Berlin, this is my number one recommendation!) Our guide (very alternative), took us through Berlin’s walls of notable graffiti, explained their significance and the notable artists that did them. Considering that the graffiti can change over night, he did an excellent job pointing all of it out. We concluded the tour at a beach venue on the River Spree called Yam that has been fighting to keep their location since investors have been trying to buy up the land along the water for businesses and apartment complexes—and also re-tearing down the Berlin Wall (the East Side Gallery). The East Side Gallery is the longest strip of the wall still standing and covered with artist’s work. After strolling along the wall, Josh headed to the Jewish Museum (I had been on my first trip) and I headed to a massive flea market at Mauer Park (once again, hipster central). I fell in love and spent quite a few hours there, before Josh and I re-met and he left for his bus back to Copenhagen.

The future of Berlin?

Berlin Graffiti

Alternative tour guide in front of a tree house built next to the  Berlin Wall when it was still standing

East Side Gallery

East Side Gallery

Mauer Park Flea Market- AWESOME

            The next day I got an early start and rented a bike as per usual for me. Starting in the East I biked to the end of Treptower Park and explored an abandoned amusement park and saw the WWII Soviet Memorial, which was huge and absolutely over the top, but a common thing to do for Stalin. Then I continued on and explored Kreuzberg, Berlin’s new trendy area and new reason to hike up the rent. From there I got lost for quite some time and finally made it to the Reichstag (Germany’s main government building) and biked all the way to the west through Tiergarten park to see their victory tower and finally Charlottenburg Palace.

Abandoned amusement park

I went exploring...

Soviet memorial 

Reichstag

Victory Tower

Exhausted, I took the metro back East to meet my final host Dave (originally from England, but has been in Berlin for the past few years). Since I had seen Berlin east to west, Dave took me south to Neukolln, an area resembling what Berlin used to look like when it was comprised of small villages and now predominantly populated by Turks. After a delicious Italian dinner, (German food never really happened since their main delicacy is curry wurst), we headed north to meet some of his friends. One of them was from Iraq and told me how much he approved of the war we started there—in fact, if he met George Bush, he would even shake his hand. Although I was surprised, it made a lot more sense once I learned he was a Kurd from northern Iraq (which he told me is beautiful and he’d be happy to host me there!) Since we were all having an awesome time hanging out, after a while it didn’t make sense to sleep before I had to catch my flight at 7am so we stayed out until one of his friends kindly drove me to the airport and gave me a small architectural tour of the center of the city.

Like I said, curry wurst is a big deal here

Berliners love their city and so do the tons of other people that have fallen in love with this raw and still growing city. Although Berlin definitely grew on me by the end of my trip, I’m not sure I will be rushing back any time soon. The city lacks the ornate and lavish air of other European cities and despite Germany being a world leader they are very much so debt. As their mayor stated, “Berlin is poor, but sexy.” 

Belgium: A Politer, Frencher Netherlands

           Although Belgium had not originally been on my list of destinations in Europe, the allure of an easy train ride and charming cities drew me in. Belgium is a fascinating country split into 3 regions: the Dutch/Flemish side, the French side, and a tiny region of German speakers. With the exception of Brussels that has French and Dutch as their language, I was mainly in Dutch speaking areas (although, Belgian Dutch is much flatter and more subdued than Netherlands Dutch which is almost raucous). Anyways, I hopped on the train to my first destination, Antwerp (a city known for its student population, large port, and diamond industry). As soon as I arrived I was amazed by the intricate and beautiful train station in the city center. I didn’t have long to wait before my first couchsurfing host, Han, picked me up (like most Dutch, I couldn’t pronounce his name correctly, but he appreciated that I made it sound like Han Solo from Star Wars). We walked through the main shopping area and to his small student apartment where we made dinner together before seeing Antwerp by night. We walked through the main square, Antwerp’s tiny Red Light District, along the Schelde River, and stayed up until 4am getting to know each other and learning about each other’s cultures (although he was quite an expert at both the English language and American culture already).

Antwerp Central Station

Antwerp Friday Market

Han and I taking the OLD escalators into the tunnel

Schelde River in Antwerp

Antwerp City Hall

            The next morning, Han took more time away from writing his thesis to walk through Antwerp’s furniture market/auction, the tunnel going under the Schelde (often used to film Dutch music videos!), get lattes at an excellent hipster coffee place, through his university, and a tiny Chinatown. As soon as we parted ways, I met my second Antwerp host, David. Our first stop was biking to MUHKA, another VERY absurd modern art museum (he promised me that Belgium had better art than this)! Next we biked along the river to the MAS, Antwerp’s new museum with a fantastic view of the city and finally through a lovely park back to his apartment where we made dinner together, shared music (my taste was a little too indie for him), and sampled some awesome Belgian beers. The next morning David prepared a lovely breakfast before I left for Ghent.

MUHKA... art

David and I at the MAS

            Just as I was entering my Ghent host’s apartment (Jochen), another couchsurfer was leaving. Jochen took me through Ghent’s medieval streets, around the Count’s Castle, through the big cathedrals, the meat hall, and even passed by a cooking show being filmed. As we toured, Jochen encouraged me to continue enjoying the sunny weather and stop for beers each time I asked him a big question such as “What are Belgian politics like?” (I learned they are VERY complex). Jochen also told me about his trip to Israel which was very interesting since its rare I meet non-Jews that go there and how his pro-Palestinian position (most of Belgium feels this way) was altered through his trip there. Next we met up with his friend Sarah who joined us on our tour and brought us to a delicious vegetarian restaurant. After dinner, we went to see a Dutch band play in someone’s kitchen. Although I couldn’t understand any of the lyrics, listening to the cello, xylophone, and guitarist was lovely. Finally, we explored Ghent by night (all of their buildings are lit up) and tried Jenever (a very tasty drink similar to gin, but with tons of different flavor options—I tried chocolate).

Ghent

Jochen in front of Count's Castle

Sarah and I in Ghent

The Mystic Lamb by Van Eyck

Dutch band

Sarah and I on a bar on a boat!

Ghent by night

            Jochen had to catch an early train to Leuven, so I also left early and headed to Brugges. The small city of Brugges (only 20,000 residents) could be likened to a medieval open-air museum full of giant groups of Asian and senior citizen tourist groups. Brugges was unbelievably charming and full of chocolate shops (I got plenty of samples), more cathedrals, windmills, a large flea market, and surrounded by a canal with several gates. I also had my first Belgian waffle and Belgian fries (Belgians are very adamant that they were the inventors of fries, not the French). My favorite place in Brugges was the Beguinage, a UNESCO World Heritage site, that claims to have housed the first feminists in 1200 who took a pledge of chastity and formed their own community (different than nuns though).

Brugges

Beguinage in Brugges

Brugges

Brugges

            With another quick train ride, I traveled to my final city Brussels. Sasha, my last host, picked me up at the station and took me around the city (the weather was absolutely perfect!) Sasha, originally from Ukraine was very interested to learn about the United States and differentiate reality versus movies. His roommate was in the same boat since she first asked me if I was Texas (I was a little offended ;)) and then asked me if I knew where Finland was since Americans don’t know geography (good to know I could conquer that stereotype). Next, Sasha and I met up with Rachel, a friend from Clark, who flew in from Valencia. She was able to catch the Grand Palace lit up at night, Manneken Piss (Brussel’s iconic peeing fountain), and join us at the Delirium Café that has a menu of beers the size of a thick clothing catalogue. We had a few hours to see Brussels the next morning in the rain before catching our bus to Amsterdam. Although Brussels had many things to offer, I found it to be like a less impressive Paris with its prestige coming from being the home of European Parliament (I was glad to get back to Holland).

Manneke Piss Fountain

Brussels (view from Palace of Justice)

Rachel's first Belgian Waffle

            In Amsterdam, I was able to be the tour guide as we strolled through Amsterdam’s swanky Jordaan neighborhood, the flower market, and hit the main tourist spots in the center. The next day, I showed Rachel Leiden and even convinced her to ride on the back of my bike (a must for the authentic Dutch experience). Before her whirlwind trip to Holland and Belgium ended we went to the Windmill Museum, de Volk. Since I can’t seem to get enough of windmills, the next day, my friend Danean and I ventured to Kinderdijk! Kinderdijk is a small village near Rotterdam and also a UNESCO site featuring 19 windmills that pump out the water around the polder and plenty of tourists. From there we took a spur of the moment bus ride to Utrecht. Although, I didn’t get to see much of it, I did finally meet up with my fellow Clarkie, Leah studying in the Netherlands for dinner (I definitely need to go back). Now I’m off to Berlin, more on that next week!

Rachel and I at the Burcht in Leiden

Danean and I in Kinderdijk

Kinderdijk

Utrecht

Clark in Utrecht!!

Just Another Great Socialist Country

            After a week home in the Netherlands cooped up in my room doing homework, I was definitely very ready for my next adventure to Copenhagen! Before I left, I did manage to make another trip to Amsterdam! I do have to say it’s growing on me quite a bit. I met up with my Dutch friend, Soleil, who guided me through different neighborhoods, a fantastic market, and to the Stedelijk Museum (VERY modern art). By Thursday, I had given my presentation on mountaintop removal in Appalachia (the Dutch students commented that I talked to quickly for them but, appreciated listening to a passionate American hippie), completed my paper on the fish markets in Urk and Tsukiji, Japan, and finished my paper on Germany’s decision to phase-out nuclear power by 2021! Phew! I was able to celebrate by going to all you can eat pancakes (Dutch pancakes look more like giant crepes and are incredibly delicious).

All you can eat Dutch pancakes!

Soleil was not so impressed with the art

I was also a little skeptical

Amsterdam's canals

            From class I grabbed my bag and caught my flight to Copenhagen. Just like the Netherlands, I was able to take a train directly from the airport to the city where my friend Josh was waiting for me. Since, I arrived at night we didn’t get to see much, but were able to relax and catch up at his dorm which is about a 25 minute bus ride or bike ride from the city center. The next day we joined the masses of other bikers going into the city so I could wander around while Josh was in class. It's amazing how similar Denmark and the Netherlands are with similar languages, a love of biking (although the Dutch are far more reckless), a lovely queen, and progressive policies.

A church turned into an art museum

The weather was PERFECT!

            My first stop was to a 7-11 (my favorite coffee) which I was delighted to see that they have all over the city, but was outraged after I calculated kronners to dollars to see how overpriced it was (Denmark is not a cheap city). From there I walked down their main shopping street, Stroget and to their glass market where low and behold I ran into an old friend my high school also visiting Copenhagen for a few days! It’s a crazy world! Josh and I then met up after class so he could give me a tour of the city by bike! We rode past Tivoli (it’s not open yet, but it’s the amusement park that apparently inspired Disneyworld!), Danish Parliament, many statues of kings on horses (all of their kings are either Frederick or Christian with a Hans thrown in there somewhere), the Black Diamond (one of Copenhagen’s architectural stars), and stopped at City Hall where a massive protest was happening. The government is trying to extend the school day without paying teachers more, rather than the teachers striking, the teachers have been locked out of the school!

Parliament and a statue of either Frederick or Christian

Teacher's Protest, the Lockout, in front of City Hall

Next we met up with some of Josh’s friends from University of Maryland and climbed the Round Tower for some lovely views of the city, offshore wind turbines, and even a sliver of Sweden in the distance. Then we headed to Nyhavn an area near the water with ships and colorful houses and the iconic shot of Copenhagen. As we walked closer to the water we found public trampolines (if they weren’t such a hazard to personal safety I think every city should invest in them). We soon hopped on our bikes again and rode through the royal palace and royal church, which is particularly interesting because I learned that church and state are not separate in Denmark! Unless you opt out, 1% of your taxes there go to the Protestant churches. Before journeying back to Josh’s dorm we stopped at the Little Mermaid statue built in honor of Hans Christian Andersen, which has become a major landmark in Denmark (I was underwhelmed by it). That evening Josh and I made a lovely dinner before heading out to experience some Danish nightlife in their Meat Packing District.

View from the Round Tower with wind turbines and Sweden WAY off in the distance

Josh and I at the Round Tower

Nyhavn 

Public trampolines!

The Little Mermaid

            

             

Guards at the Royal Palace (he yelled at me for getting too close)

              We slept in the next day then began prepping for the Final Four Party Josh was hosting (college basketball for those just as clueless as me) by taking a shopping cart down the bike lane to their big grocery store, Fotex. Afterwards, we took the metro to one of the strangest places I’ve ever been called Christiania. It’s located on one of Copenhagen’s many islands and holds a sectioned off area in which there are 3 rules: 1. No photos. 2. No running (it causes panic). 3. Have fun. Inside the area are places to eat and drink, but mostly small stands selling marijuana! Technically, marijuana isn’t legal in Denmark, but it’s also not illegal. Christiania thinks of itself as autonomous from both Denmark and the EU, so they do as they please and are occasionally raided by the police. What a place! That evening the Final Four party was fun until the game started at midnight and all the other women left. Sports, ugh.

I had to take a photo very sneakily of Christiania

Josh at the lake in Christianhavn

            Sunday, Josh and I went to his visiting family (like a home stay, but they only get together every few weeks). We walked around the old harbor town then returned to their home for 2 hours of coffee, DELICIOUS danishes, and chatting about everything from cars to Danish politics. Finally, we had a very traditional Danish meal of beef (I passed) and potatoes (like the Netherlands vegetarians are not very common).

Harbor town

            On my last day, we got up very early for Josh to go to class while I did some thrifting in a neighborhood known as the Latin Quarter or the “Piss Gutter” (for a place known as the piss gutter, nothing was very cheap here either!) Afterwards, Josh met up with me at the Post and Tele Museum on his break before we parted ways. I then walked past the Rosenburg castle and gardens and through the Norreboro neighborhood (a lot of immigrants and loads of falafel and shwarma). Finally, I visited the city’s main cemetery, which contains the city’s deceased VIPs and most notably Hans Christian Andersen’s grave. Then once again I took a quick train ride and flew back to Amsterdam!

Natural born operator at the Post and Tele Museum

Practicing for a future career as a postal worker

Rosenburg Castle

            This weekend I will make my way  to the Netherlands neighbor and fellow Dutch speaking country, Belgium!